IntroductionThis classic summer tramp for experienced backcountry trampers crosses Harman Pass, Whitehorn Pass and Browning Pass/Noti Raureka. It gives the excitement, variety and contrast of a transalpine route.
The Three Passes trip can be started from either end, but the east to west route described here is recommended. It's considerably easier and safer to go down Cronin Stream after Whitehorn Pass than to travel up it from the western side. It's also easier to navigate and climb up to Browning Pass from the east.
The marked route to Mid Styx and Lake Kaniere Road requires at least two fords of the Styx River. Travel is not recommended during or following heavy rain and due to the constantly changing nature of the river, safe crossing will change over time. Take the time to fully assess your crossing point.
Note: True left and true right refer to the side of the valley or river when facing and looking downstream.
SH73 to Carrington Hut
Time: 4–5 hours one way
Carrington Hut to Park Morpeth Hut
Time: 9–10 hours one way
This section goes over Harman and Whitehorn passes as detailed below. It can be undertaken over 2 days by camping at Harman Pass where there is a suitable site to pitch a tent by the Ariels Tarns – this is the only suitable site for camping.
Carrington Hut to Harman Pass
Time: 3 hours one way
From Carrington Hut follow the track to the riverbed of White River. As you walk upstream, look for a place to cross White River to get to Taipoiti River on the opposite bank.
Warning: If you need to use Clough Cableway because of high river levels, do not continue as you will experience further serious problems with other rivers along the route.
If there is snow up the Taipoiti, the route will be difficult. During winter and spring, avalanches can funnel into the gorge over the cliffs.
Climb and scramble up through the steep gorge, crossing from side to side where necessary. At the top of the gorge, waterfalls tumble over impassable cliffs. Pass these waterfalls. The poled route to Harman Pass starts here, beside a small stream.
Once out of the Taipoiti gorge you can see the main Taipoiti River branches into two streams, each running down a deep gully. A well-worn trail marked with cairns and poles crosses the true left branch relatively soon and then climbs upwards, well above the true right gully. As the second stream becomes smaller and more open, cross it. After a short walk you will reach the top of Harman Pass.
Harman Pass to Whitehorn Pass
Time: 2 hours one way
Warning: Do not attempt the route in poor visibility - Whitehorn Pass is only obvious on a clear day
Harman Pass is a junction point for trampers taking the marked route down Mary Creek to Julia Hut. Be sure you take the marked route to Ariels Tarns.
From Harman Pass, a poled route ascends to the first of Ariels Tarns by sidling on the tussock and rocky shelves well above the small gorge of Mary Creek. Pass the tarns and continue to follow the poled route past a small rock hump and onto piles of rock before reaching permanent ice/snow. The poled route stops here; make your own way up the valley to the pass. Near the top of Whitehorn Pass, head right to reach a cairn and marker on the saddle.
The permanent ice field of Whitehorn Pass may have crevasses, especially in late summer. If the snow is deep consider turning back.
Whitehorn Pass to Park Morpeth Hut
Time: 4–5 hours one way
Warning: The steep drop-off from Whitehorn Pass is prone to avalanches.
A worn route zigzags down the screes from the true left of the pass – this is the best route down through the bluffed flanks of the pass. Take care not to dislodge loose rocks onto those below you. Once near the valley floor, travel along the true left of upper Cronin Stream. Terraces may offer better travel. Lower down, find a suitable place to cross to the true right. Just before the river drops into a deep gorge, look for orange markers (part way up the scree slope edge) or a large cairn on a large rock at the bottom of a scree slope.
Sidle across the scree at the level of the cairned rock to pick up the worn trail to the hut. Poles and cairns mark the ground trail. It crosses a side creek and scrubby spur before dropping onto a boggy grass terrace with small tarns. Skirt the terrace to the left and drop towards the confluence of Cronin Stream and Wilberforce River. By going around the tarns you avoid damaging the delicate bog vegetation.
Park Morpeth Hut
The Canterbury Mountaineering Club built the hut in memory of James Park and John Morpeth who died while tramping from Lake Kaniere to the Wilberforce valley in January 1929.
Park Morpeth to Browning Pass/Noti Raureka
Time: 2 hours one way
This is the steepest section of the Three Passes route. From Park Morpeth Hut walk up the true left of Wilberforce River. Ford the Wilberforce after it joins with Hall Creek opposite Clough Memorial.
Start up the zigzag track to Browning Pass/Noti Raureka. The zigzags were part of a track started in the late1860s. John Pascoe warned in his 1938 route guide "it is inexpedient to follow the track to its illogical conclusion in the bluffs near the Hamer Falls, lest you join the shades of the miners who built the track."
From the top of the zigzag, before it disappears into the bluffs, climb the obvious scree (in summer there is a worn trail visible). Just before you reach the summit the scree narrows and the climb is at its steepest. Continue carefully up the rock and tussock left of the scree – there are markers that lead you through the bluffs.
Warning: If there is snow on this section (winter and early spring) it is essential that all members of the party can self-arrest. A cornice at the top or ice conditions can dramatically increase this section's difficulty. Once on Browning Pass relax; the steepest section is over.
Browning Pass/Noti Raureka to Harman Hut
Time: 3 hours one way
From the pass a poled track runs round the west side of Lake Browning/Whakarewa and over gentle boggy uplands.
The poled route then descends to the upper reaches of the Arahura River. Look for the benched track on the river's true right then cross to reach it. It is important to cross rather than try to travel down the true left because further downstream there are high waterfalls, bluffs and thick scrub on the true left bank.
Once you cross the river, follow the benched track. There are three avalanche chutes to cross, so take care from late July to the end of November and do not linger. The track ends at a side creek with steep gravel banks, close to the Arahura. Drop to the riverbed and cross to the true left.
From here continue downstream until you pick up the track marked with a large orange triangle. Follow this track to a small side stream, travel upstream for 100 m to pick up the wide grassy track leading off on the true left – do not miss this turn off. Harman Hut is 20 minutes away.
Harman Hut to Grassy Flat Hut
Time: 3–4 hours one way
From Harman Hut follow the track to a swing bridge, cross to follow the old benched track high above Arahura River. The turn-off to the boggy Styx Saddle is signposted and marked by large poles.
Once across the saddle, the track begins again at the bush edge following the true right of Styx River. The track is wet and boggy, with slippery damp mosses and lichen on the rocks. Look for the impressive twisted rātā trees.
Cross the river a few minutes after the track emerges from the bush onto Grassy Flat, picking up the orange markers on the true left. The hut is in the middle of the flats on the true left of Styx River.
Grassy Flat Hut
Grassy Flat Hut to Mid-Styx Hut
Time: 1 hr 30 mins
From the hut head downstream and re-cross Styx River. The track begins on the true right just below the prominent toetoe flat (toetoe is a tall native grass that looks similar to pampas grass).
Head down stream on the true right for around an hour. At sign indicates the route down to the river and to Mid Styx. The river must be crossed to pick up the route on the true left, however due to the constantly changing nature of the river, the crossing may be 100 – 200 m up or downstream of the sign.
Dependent on the river crossing point it may be necessary to cross a large side creek in order to pick up the route to Mid Styx Hut.
The route climbs steeply to a terrace and after around 30 minutes you’ll arrive at the Hut.
Mid Styx Hut
Mid-Styx Hut To Lake Kaniere Road
Time: 2 hr 30 mins to 3 hours
From mid-Styx the route continues along the terrace for about 30 minutes before dropping steeping into Tyndall Creek. This descent is exposed in places. Once in Tyndall Creek cross to the true left and travel for just over a kilometre to the Styx River.
The route then travels downstream on the true left of the Styx River. The Styx is crossed again to and an old farm track leads to the carpark at the Lake Kaniere Road.
The eastern starting point is at the road bridge over the Waimakariri River, beside State Highway 73 (SH73), 10 km east of Arthur's Pass village.
On the western side, access to the ends of the Arahura or Styx river tracks is via Lake Kaniere Road, inland from Hokitika.
What to expect: This route requires several major river crossings, has some extremely steep sections, and all-year snow on Whitehorn Pass. You need to take an ice-axe and crampons and know how to use them. Browning Pass/Noti Raureka is very steep and can be icy.
Experience: Suitable for well-equipped and experienced backcountry trampers only. Alpine experience and equipment essential.
Best season: Mid to late summer (January to February). This crossing is not suitable over winter - the route passes through several known avalanche paths.
Required maps: NZTopo50: Otira BV20, Kaniere BV19
Hazards: Avalanche, rockfall, flooded rivers and steep ice slopes, variable weather.
Safety: This route guide must be read in conjunction with Tramping in Arthur's Pass National Park (PDF, 762K), and New Zealand's Outdoor Safety Code.
Before setting out, check the latest track conditions and avalanche advisory with the Arthur's Pass Visitor Centre.
Stay safe when crossing rivers
If you plan to cross unbridged rivers, know how to cross safely and be prepared for if you cannot cross.
Do not cross if the river is flooded, you cannot find safe entry and exit points or are unsure it’s safe. Turn back or wait for the river to drop. If in doubt, stay out.