Croesus Track
Tramping track
Time:
7 - 8 hr
Distance:
18 km
Getting there
About 1 km past Blackball on a sealed road to Roa, a signpost pointing right indicates the shingle road to the Smoke-ho car park and the start of Croesus Track.
About the area
Luxuriant coastal forest, limestone cliffs and canyons, caves and underground streams, and an absolutely spectacular coastline, are all packed into one national park.
One of the finest surviving examples of a miners' track on the West Coast.
Garden Gully Hut is near Blackball on the West Coast. The historic hut has been restored by the Department of Conservation and it is a site you can visit.
A tramper on the Croesus Track
Croesus Track is a trek across the Paparoa Range between Blackball in the Grey Valley and Barrytown on the Tasman Sea Coast.
Miners formed tracks up Blackball Creek after rich alluvial gold was struck in 1864. The discovery of gold-bearing quartz 25 years later resulted in a better track for transporting equipment to the Minerva quartz-crushing site.
Croesus mine was opened at the top of the range in 1896. The mine failed to live up to its namesake, a wealthy king of Lydia, and closed in 1903.The crushing battery was shifted to Garden Gully in 1905. Mining returns in the gully and at the Minerva were poor.
The Paparoa Wildlife Trust monitor Roroa kiwi and Blue duck/whio in the area.
Description
An east west crossing from Blackball is recommended over Croesus as it ascends to 1200 metres via a well-formed and fairly easy track. The Upper half of the western section is quite steep and rough before decending onto a good benched track again down to Barrytown. Snow poles mark the route across the open tops. It should not be attempted in poor weather.
Smoke-ho car park to first hotel site
Time: 30 min
After an initial short climb the track descends through podocarp/hardwood forest to the Roaring Meg Ecological Area. A wire suspension bridge crosses the Smoke-ho Creek before the track continues above Blackball Creek and down to the first hotel site – a grassy clearing at Clarke Creek. From here a 10 minutes return track takes you to the Minerva battery site and mine.
First hotel site to second hotel site
Time: 30 min
Wire suspension bridges cross the Clarke and main Blackball Creeks. Continuing up the main valley, the track passes the grassy clearing of the second hotel site.
Second hotel site to Garden Gully junction
Time: 1 hr
The track zigzags up to the dividing ridge between Blackball Creek and Roaring Meg catchments. The Garden Gully Battery Track branches here and is a recommended 30 minutes return walk.
Garden Gully junction to Ces Clark Hut
Time: 1 hr
The track climbs more steeply into subalpine forest including neinei, pink pine, southern rata and broadleaf. On a fine day you will be rewarded with views of Lake Brunner, the main divide and the Victoria mountains when you reach above the bush line. Here the Top Hut, constructed in the 1930’s, comes into view just before the larger Ces Clark Hut.
Ces Clark Hut to western bushline
Time: 1 hr 30 min
The track up to the main ridge is easily followed and there is a good view of Lake Margaret in the forest below. Follow the snow poles across the tops and when you round the head of the Ten Mile Waianiwaniwa Creek there is a great view down the valley to Point Elizabeth and Mt’s Aoraki/Cook and Tasman in the distant south.
Halfway across the tops the Moonlight Track branches off to the right while the route to Barrytown sidles leftward and climbs to the flanks of Mt Ryall (1220 metres). As you gradually descend to the bush line look towards the sea for fantastic panoramic views of the Tasman coastline.
Bushline to Barrytown
Time: 2 hr 30 min
The marked route follows the ridge down, passing through mossy silver beech forest and for a short distance follows an old water race – a reminder of when Barrytown was the scene of one of the West Coast’s last gold rushes, in 1879. Approaching the coast the vegetation changes to warm climate species and includes beautiful nikau palms.
Places to stay
This is a serviced 16-bunk hut in the Greymouth area.
To fully enjoy the Paparoa tops you are encouraged to stay overnight in the modern 16 bunk Ces Cark Hut.
Plan and prepare
Wear sturdy, comfortable tramping boots and be prepared for sudden changes in the weather at any time of year.
You are advised to carry a Topomap NZMS 260 (1:50,000) series K31 Ahaura, a sleeping bag, cooking utensils, portable stove and fuel, sufficient food, basic first aid kit, raincoat, insect repellent and warm clothing including gloves and hat.
For track conditions, maps weather forecasts and more information on the area contact the Greymouth - Mawheranui Area Office.
What to expect on a tramping track:
- Challenging day or multi-day tramping/hiking
- Track is mostly unformed with steep, rough or muddy sections
- Suitable for people with good fitness. Moderate to high level backcountry skills and experience, including navigation and survival skills required
- Track has markers, poles or rock cairns. Expect unbridged stream and river crossings
- Tramping/hiking boots required
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