Track description

This is an east to west description of the track. The times quoted are only approximate.

Brown Hut to Perry Saddle Hut

Time: 5 hr
Distance: 17.5 km

Brown Hut has bunk space for 16. About 180 metres upstream from the hut, cross the bridge over the Brown River, then a grass flat, before winding up a well-defined track and into the bush.

The track climbs gradually, following a route once surveyed for a road. After 4 hours, Aorere shelter is reached. From here, the Aorere Valley is seen extending northwards and on clear days it is possible to see Mt Taranaki/Egmont. Thirty minutes before Perry Saddle Hut, a short track leads to a viewpoint at Flanagans Corner. At 915 metres, this is the highest point on the track.

Perry Saddle Hut is 880 metres above sea level and has bunk accommodation for 24. Near the hut in Gorge Creek is a deep but cold pool, popular for bathing.

Perry Saddle to Gouland Downs Hut

Time: 2 hr
Distance: 7 km

Track between Perry Saddle and
Gouland Downs

From Perry Saddle Hut, cross Perry Saddle and sidle above Perry Creek through tussock clearings and patches of beech. Soon the valley widens and the track climbs a small rise to where the open downs are revealed stretching out to the west.

The track meanders easily down to Cave Brook, passing the famed pole to which trampers have tied old boots over the years. Just beyond the brook is Gouland Downs Hut, which has 8 bunks.

Nearby, a small patch of beech grows on a limestone outcrop which has escaped erosion. This area is worth exploring. The track crosses one of several limestone arches, which are the remnants of old caves. Nearby, a small waterfall flows out of another cave passage.

Gouland Downs Hut to Saxon Hut

Time: 1 hr 30 min
Distance: 5.4 km

Beyond Gouland Downs Hut the track is relatively level as it crosses the northern part of Gouland Downs. The tussock country and riverbeds make for good exploring but, when the mist lowers, the featureless downs can be confusing and it is easy to become disorientated.

Saxon Hut, nestled near the end of the downs, is the newest on the track. It sleeps 16 and is named after John Saxon, who surveyed the track in 1886.

Saxon Hut to James Mackay Hut

Time: 3 hr
Distance: 11.8 km

From Saxon Hut the track drops slightly to grassy flats beside the Saxon River. After the flats, the track climbs gently up to a broad ridge, which joins Gouland Downs to Mackay Downs and marks the boundary between Nelson and the West Coast.

A section on Mackay Downs floods in extremely wet conditions. This is a 70 metre piece of the track across a wetland and a bridge. It becomes impassable and quite dangerous. Walkers should wait for the water to recede.

The track now skirts the edge of Mackay Downs to James Mackay Hut, winding in and out of several small streams, just before they tumble off the downs and fall to the Heaphy River on the left. The vegetation is alternately tussock field and shrub-fringed patches of beech forest. Small creeks dissect the landscape and the pink granite sparkles and crunches beneath your feet.

The hut is named after the explorer who first pressed for a bridle track to be established between Collingwood and the West Coast. It has 26 bunks and is situated just above the track on an open terrace. The Tasman Sea and Heaphy River mouth can be seen from here, 15 km to the west and 750 metres below.

James Mackay Hut to Lewis Hut

Time: 3 hr 30 min
Distance: 12.5 km

Beyond James Mackay Hut, the downs landscape ends and a gradual descent to the Heaphy River begins. The track is through beech forest at first but soon the richer and taller forest typical of the West Coast becomes dominant.

Occasional tantalising glimpses of the Heaphy River below are seen through the forest; the sounds of rushing water grow louder and suddenly the hut is reached, at the junction of the Heaphy River with the smaller Lewis River.

Sandflies and the first nikau palms appear around Lewis Hut, which sleeps 20. Charles Lewis was a Collingwood surveyor who, in the 1880s, was first to investigate Mackay's proposed bridle route.

Lewis Hut to Heaphy Hut

Time: 2 hr 30 min
Distance: 8 km

Track between Lewis Hut
and Heaphy Hut

From Lewis Hut, head back up the track for a short distance to a junction. Turn left and walk over a ridge to a footbridge. Cross the Lewis River here, then follow the right bank of the Heaphy River to another bridge.

The track crosses the Heaphy here and continues along the left bank to the river mouth through a forest of kahikatea, rimu and rata. Glossy-leaved shrubs perch precariously in the tall trees, flourishing in the abundant light and extracting nutrients from humus (accumulated plant debris) in their hosts' branches.

In dry spells, the sluggish river meanders along peacefully, but in times of heavy rain especially when it's high tide, sections of the track and bridges get flooded. In a area of limestone and karst locally known as Cave Stream about fifteen minutes before Heaphy Hut, floods after periods of heavy rain. Extra care is required at both places in flood conditions and walkers should wait for the water to recede.

Towards the river mouth, nikau palms become more common, the sea's incessant roaring grows louder and, in some conditions, small waves can be seen running upriver. Heaphy Hut is situated far enough back from the sea to be spared the worst of the winds. It accommodates 28.

The river mouth is at the junction of two pounamu (greenstone) trails and archaeological work has uncovered evidence of occupation by Maori that extends back 500 years. In 1905, an extensive European settlement was surveyed in the lower valley, but it was never built.

Heaphy Hut to Kohaihai River Mouth

Time: 5 hr
Distance: 16.2 km

The Heaphy River mouth is an exciting place. The river surges out through a narrow gap into the sea; in-coming waves halt the flow and the churning of salt and fresh waters is spectacular.

The track south to Kohaihai is through forest although beach walking is possible in some places. Some of the small streams are not bridged and can be dangerous after heavy rain. The forest has rata and karaka trees, many vines and groves of nikau palms. Be careful of the stinging nettle that grows in places.

Just beyond Katipo Creek is Crayfish (Koura) Point. There is no high tide track over the point and where the track follows the top of the beach can be impassable two hours or so either side of high tide when sea conditions are rough. Check tide tables in the Heaphy Hut or Kohaihai Shelter before proceeding over this section. Tide tables are displayed in the Heaphy Hut and Kohaihai Shelter.

Soon Scotts Beach is reached, the clearing here is a good spot to rest before climbing over Kohaihai Saddle and down through wind-blasted shrubs to a bridge across the Kohaihai River. The track follows the riverbank for 400 metres to Kohaihai carpark where there is a shelter and phone.

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