Raoul Island diary April 2009

By Chauncy Ardell

Me hi korokoro tui o Rangitahua 

A brief history

The tiny shimmering emerald of the South Pacific that is Raoul Island is significant for tupuna Maori as Rangitahua, a stepping stone on the long migratory voyage from the homelands of Hawaiki to the great unknown expanse of Aotearoa. It is said that the Aotea, Tainui, Te Arawa, Mataatua, Te Waka Horouta and Takitimu waka regrouped at Raoul Island and took on passengers from the damaged Kurahaupo waka, which was undergoing repairs.

Raoul Island volunteers in crater

A pou whenua, or land pole, was erected on the island in 2001 by kaumatua of the Ngati Kuri iwi to acknowledge and recognise the ancestry and connection that the Northland tribe has with Rangitahua.

Since those initial landings, Rangitahua has probably been utilised by many Polynesian and Maori voyagers as a stopover for rest, repairs and the collection of food and water. Today, remnants of the occupation of the island can be seen by the presence of Polynesian plants, such as the vast stands of fou or shore hibiscus, the majestic candlenut trees, the fibrous Cordyline (ti or cabbage tree), and even taro growing below the springs on the rocky eastern side of the island. There is also the possibility that karaka, an important food source, was brought to Rangitahua before making its way further to Aotearoa.

Years later, Europeans made various attempts to settle on Rangitahua, which they knew as either Sunday or Raoul Island. They were usually courageous and resourceful people, but unwittingly introduced many plant and animal pests which were to have a detrimental effect on this beautiful island's unique ecology.

Today DOC is doing its best to reverse the damage done in the past, and with the eradication of goats, cats and rats, the island's flora and fauna is beginning to flourish anew.

My work on Raoul

My principle role on the island is to conduct search and destroy missions for some of the introduced exotic plants which are invading the vast valleys, ravines, peaks, slips and near vertical cliffs on this wild and rugged island.

Relaxing in a rock pool after a hard
day's weeding on Raoul Island

One of our target weeds is black passionfruit, which seems to love it here and would smother everything if not kept in check. Its lush spreading form blends in with the subtropical forest of Raoul, making it very elusive for eagle-eyed weeders. We do occasionally discover a huge vine sneakily hugging the forest canopy and gorge ourselves on the delectable fruit while simultaneously tearing this destructive weed from the ground!

I love being part of the immense legacy of important work that is being undertaken here, and it is a great feeling to see the immediacy of conservation in action. This is the second time I have lived here, and the change even after two years is visible, with fewer weeds being found and higher numbers of birds and endangered plant species being recorded. 

It is amazing that even today, someone can be hanging off a rope searching for wily weeds on a perilous cliff face and find a previously unrecorded plant species. Such discoveries are not uncommon, with the rediscovery of the endemic hebe in 1983 by a homeward bound goat hunter, and the exciting recent discovery of many unknown bryophytes (mosses, hornworts and liverworts).

Today the hebe discovered on Raoul is still one of the rarest plants in the world, but it is making a comeback. Part of my job is to monitor and care for those plants growing on steep rock faces and slips in the wild, as well as propagate and plant new colonies in the hope of enhancing the small genetic base. It may seem like minor work to someone far away in New Zealand, but I believe an island such as Raoul to be a modern day Noah's ark, and a marvellous example of a relatively untouched natural world in these rapidly changing times.

What's been happening in April?

This month has seen our idyllic island sanctuary invaded by a team of scientists, botanists, technicians and helicopter pilots. It was really strange to begin with, seeing as the eight of us have only had each other's humble company for six months. After the initial response of "who are these people and what are they doing on my island!", we enjoyed the new faces, stories, adventures and fresh food these friendly and interesting people had brought.

Best of all for myself  was the rare opportunity to hang out of a helicopter to visually search the more remote areas of the island for evasive weeds. Despite the vertigo induced from leaning out of a chopper rapidly spiralling down a steep ravine, I somehow managed to spot some of the dreaded mysore thorn sprawling over the cliffs above Denham Bay. We are now faced with the puzzle of how to actually get to the site to deal with the tenacious weed; up a 50m waterfall or down an 80m slip? This is how life is for a weed geek on Raoul Island such as me: immensely challenging and physically strenuous work, which is concurrently fascinating and always hugely rewarding.

Goodbye to Raoul weeders

Sadly, four of my fellow weeders of the last six months are leaving soon and six more will take their place. They organised a "smart casual" dinner and awards evening this month, which required us all to vote in selected categories such as: "best fashion in the field", "best home brew" and "best hair". Of course our mechanic Dave cleaned up the "best hair" award with his luxurious curly and fragrant mop and beard, while Sian took the coveted "fashion in the field" award for her elegant purple top and high waisted yellow PVC trouser ensemble.

Looking flash on awards night on Raoul
Island

I have had some amazing adventures and laughs with my new friends. They are all wonderful people who are inspiring to work with and brilliant chefs. Annie, Toby, Sian and Greer, it's been awesome and you'll be missed!

Rangitahua is definitely one of the special places: a bird filled sub-tropical island surrounded by vast oceans teeming with multitudes of colourful fish, sharks, dolphins, whales and turtles, and boasting a fascinating botanical community including many unusual endemic species which bridge the genetic gap between Aotearoa and Polynesia.

It is truly a privilege to be part of Raoul's intriguing and colourful history, and I am thankful and humbled to be one of the kaitiaki who believe in the work they do to support this island in continuing to be the incredible place that it is.

Ka hoki nga whakaaro ki nga ra o mua, me i nga ra e heke mai nei, kia kaha te mahi!

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