Planning a native garden

Plan

• Visit a nearby reserve (e.g. Riccarton Bush/Putaringamotu) or a patch of native forest and observe the planting associations, heights, colour and shape of the different species.
• Choose an area of your garden where native plants can grow naturally without obstructing long term sun or views or interfering with power lines, driveways, etc.
• Draw a plan of the area you want to plant showing existing trees, paths, services (underground), power lines, etc.
• Try to picture your native garden in five to ten years time and think about other native plants that you would like to plant when the canopy closure will provide frost and wind protection to other species such as ferns and frost tender plants.
• Place your plants in groups with a spacing between the larger trees of 2.5 metres - 3 metres, and between the small trees, shrubs and herbs of 1.5 metres - 2 metres.
• The final plan should show the name and location of each plant. This will help you to place your plants at planting time.

Prepare

Preparation of the planting site is essential for plant growth and survival and should be done well before planting. For the average home garden situation, removal of the grass cover will be best in the long term.

•  cut / mow lawn or grass area 
• mark out the area to be planted
•  lift turf out by cutting 1.5 spade widths wide (place cut pieces outside the area) 
• use lifted turf squares for composting or cut them in half and place them inverted around the trees after planting 
• add well rotted manure or compost 
• aerate soil by forking or digging 
• keep the site weed free until planting time

Remember - native trees don’t compete favourably with invasive weeds for moisture and nutrients.

Plant

The best times of the year for planting are during the autumn months of April to May or late winter - spring (August - September). Planting outside the cooler winter months means that an intensive watering programme may be required to keep plants alive. Planting should be avoided on bright sunny days or excessively windy days.

• Before planting make sure that the site is moist but not water saturated.
• Keep the plants cool and moist until you are ready to plant.
• Mark with a stake where the plants are going to be planted.
• Dig a wide and deep enough hole for the plant roots to spread out. 
• Remove plant from polythene bag by inverting the planter bag and holding the soil with the palm of one hand, and gently pulling the polythene bag by the fold on the base.
• If the roots are evenly spread place plants straight into planting hole (or cut the root ball with a knife down the length of the roots).
• Cover the roots with fine soil, firming layer by layer.
• Plant at same depth in the soil as the soil line at the base of the stem in the bag.
• Leave the surface with a loose texture and water thoroughly.

Protect

Mulching

Native trees and shrubs grow naturally in forest with a deep litter mulch of decaying vegetation, leaves, etc.

After planting, spread wet newspapers, cardboard, old carpet (wool) etc. and cover with wet straw, bark chips (untreated) or compost (90 -120 mm depth) to protect roots, trap moisture and control or suppress weeds. Keep mulch away from the stems of the plants.

Watering

If planting practices have been followed and mulch applied, watering will only be necessary in dry hot conditions, and should be done thoroughly but not often (once a week maximum).

After care

Until the plants are established (2 to 3 years) and start shading and covering the ground, it might be necessary to control weeds and replace mulch. Once a cover is established and disturbance of the ground has been discontinued, spontaneous germination of natives might occur.
When the planted trees and shrubs have reached sufficient height and spread to provide shelter and shade (approximately 3 years), more tender plants can be planted underneath: e.g. ferns, pigeonwood, kawakawa, māhoe etc.

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